Saturday, March 31, 2012

Affordable small hotels in Paris

James Merrell

The H?tel Saint-Louis en l'Isle, with 20 rooms in a renovated 19th-century building, is centrally located in Paris.

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By Tina Isaac and Alexandra Marshall , Travel + Leisure

The ideal Parisian hotel is like a macaron ? small, colorful, and bursting with individual flavor. But in reality, too many boutique properties here miss the mark.

Travel+Leisure sent reporters across the city ? testing mattresses, climbing staircases, sampling petits d?jeuners ? to come up with this list of intimate bolt-holes, in styles from traditional (a Neoclassical retreat near the Panth?on) to contemporary (an art-filled hangout by the Louvre). The sweetest part: all have rates starting under $250 a night.

Slideshow: See these and more affordable hotels in Paris

Right Bank, First Arr.: Le Crayon
Just four blocks north of the Louvre, the Crayon, as its name suggests, is all about a bright, ?handmade? hotel experience, as though guests were staying in the residence of a local artist ? namely that of its decorator, Julie Gauthron. A poetic, patchwork approach to prints and styles results in a good-humored mash-up: the 26 rooms feature offbeat geometric mirrors, Panton chairs and spruced-up flea-market finds (articulated lamps, marble-topped nightstands). The basement breakfast room was a work in progress when we were there, but you can opt for croissants and coffee in bed or in the lobby. 25 Rue du Bouloi; 33-1/42-36-54-19; hotelcrayon.com; doubles from $150. M?tro: Louvre-Rivoli

Right Bank, Fourth Arr.: H?tel Saint-Louis en l?Isle
The ?le St.-Louis is picture-book Paris, its narrow, cobblestoned streets lined with caf?s, boulangeries and the original Berthillon ice cream shop. The H?tel Saint-Louis en l?Isle, 20 rooms in a handsomely renovated 19th-century building, sustains the sense of well-polished nostalgia. A twist of your fleur-de-lis-shaped room key reveals stone floors, tufted velvet headboards and custom bathroom fixtures. Other thoughtful details ? such as the loaner iPads with weather, currency and translation apps ? belie the reasonable price. So does the central location: the Latin Quarter, the Marais, and the tangle of flying buttresses at the rear of Notre Dame are all just a bridge span away. 75 Rue St.-Louis en l??le; 33-1/46-34-04-80; saintlouisenlisle.com; doubles from $225. M?tro: Pont-Marie; Cit?

Right Bank, Eighth Arr.: H?tel d?Albion
The Rue de Penthi?vre is unexpectedly quiet for being just a few blocks from both the Champs-?lys?es and President Sarkozy?s official pad on the Rue du Faubourg St.-Honor?. Another surprise: how smartly some brightly patterned wallpaper and plush-looking bedspreads can perk up humdrum furniture and basic baths. One of several properties on the street, it?s by far the best value: the 26 rooms, though small, feel up-to-date and chic, aided by exposed beams (on the fifth floor) and wall-to-wall carpet that?s actually nice. A breakfast garden is filled with potted plants, marigolds and a chestnut tree. The quirky proprietors may seem gruff to guests not accustomed to Parisian manners, but give them a smile and they become pussycats. 15 Rue de Penthi?vre; 33-1/42-65-84-15; hotelalbion.net; doubles from $155. M?tro: Mirom?snil

Right Bank, Ninth Arr.: Grand H?tel de Turin
Though the hotel has been open nearly half a century, its 51 rooms are IKEA-upbeat and regularly renovated, the latest handful about a year ago. Friendly and capable hotel staff can be counted on to steer you through the restaurant-rich neighborhood, a few blocks downhill from Montmartre. The modern sensibility carries through to the lobby and its poppy vinyl furniture. With seasonal and Web offers, a night here can cost as little as $85 ? making it easier to forgive the lack of AC. 6 Rue Victor Mass?; 33-1/48-78-45-26; hoteldeturin.com; doubles from $140. M?tro: Pigalle

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